In Confinement, We Can Still Drink Sake

Since Covid-19 sheltering-in-place began in cities around the globe, I’ve been worried about so many things: the number of elderly who are being snatched from us by the virus; the brave front-line workers who are risking their own lives to save as many others as possible, and those in the hospitality industry who are mostly out of jobs now. In Japan, I am especially worried about the sake industry, which has been hit hard by the crisis.

Here in Toronto, the LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario) has loosened restrictions to allow restaurants to sell customers beer, wine and spirits, as long as the order is accompanied by some small amount of food.So I snapped up this great set of three sakes from Sakai Bar. Owner Stu Sakai calls it his “Young Guns” set: I’m especially excited about the Zaku Ho No Tomo junmai, made with table rice from Mie Prefecture. I tried it once at the Consul-General of Japan in Toronto’s residence and loved it. Then there’s an Ishikawa yamahai junmai from Tedorigawa Brewery’s young president Yasuyuki Yoshida, and a Shuhari Kocon from Matsumoto Brewery in Kyoto, with its finish of light co2 effervescence. Both Tedorigawa and Matsumoto (no relation) are fantastic producers.

Shortly after ordering this box, my co-writer on Rice, Water, Earth, Michael Tremblay, launched his own sake sets, or what he calls “flights.” The sets are offered through Ki Modern Japanese + Bar, where Michael manages the largest sake program in Canada. His flights range from a “Sake Primer” that will introduce you to some of the different classifications of sake (junmai, ginjo, daiginjo) to an exploration of different types of moto, or starters.

Having just finished writing a draft of the chapter of our book on the heirloom variety Omachi, I have an eye on the Omachi flight. Omachi rice stalks grow super tall, and its grains are blessed with large, starchy hearts that impart an energy, richness, and roundness to its sake. Omachi sake is also known for its food pairing versatility and long finish. It’s one of my personal favorites. Ki’s Omachi flight contains some choice selections: Dewazakura Brewery’s Omachi junmai ginjo, Kiyashō’s Jikon label Omachi junmai ginjo, and Mitobe Brewery’s 1898 Akaiwa Omachi kimoto junmai. Every flight comes with a set of pickles!

Omachi sake rice had all but disappeared by the late 1960s, the victim of the chaos that descended on Japan during World War II. People were going hungry in the countryside so the government ordered all rice production to be limited to table rice, not more expensive (and inedible) sake rice. After the war, Omachi, with its low yields and reputation as a difficult rice to both grow and brew with, was passed over in favor of hybrid varieties better suited to mechanized harvest and chemical inputs. All that changed beginning in the 1970s when brewers rediscovered what great sake Omachi can produce. Mitobe’s 1898 is brewed with rice from the much-lauded Akaiwa region in southern Okayama, where the best Omachi is grown. On our book research travels, we were lucky enough to drop in on two top Akaiwa brewers and trace the story of Omachi’s revival.

Okayama is a beautiful place to visit. In summer the low-lying mountains and fields present in variegated shades of green, the skies are a vivid blue and life feels slowed down and abundant. And of course, the sake is terrific.

Now, in self-isolation in Canada, I can only dream about returning to Okayama, but I’m grateful to people like Michael and Stu, our local sake agents and other restaurateurs here in Toronto who are continually expanding their sake offerings.

Drink more sake, and stay safe, all!

If you like this blog post, click here to sign up to receive future posts in your mailbox!